Sign my

NBDS 118-119


Disassembly and prepping

First step in the painting process is taking the locomotive apart and storing the parts that need no paint

The only part that I already painted to avoid disassembly is the tender frame (yellow rectangle), so that will also be stored. All other parts need attention.

In bath

Degreasing follows the following steps

  • Soak for an hour in a lukewarm solution of powder soap from dishwasher with glossy additives. It will attack any greasy substances.
  • Stir the the solution regularly.
  • Scrub with a toothbrush to loosen greasy muck.
  • Rinse with tap water
  • Soak in water plus acetic acid (household strength), again one hour
  • Scrub
  • Rinse with tap water
  • Rinse with demineralised water to remove any residues from the tap water.
  • Blow dry with the airbrush, aim for the nooks and crannies where water tends to resist evaporation.


Oh and when draining the fluids pay close attention to the small parts trying to find their freedom. I saw one of the lifting links make its way into sink. Luckily I have a second locomotive to plunder (yes, yes, yes I will order the part as a spare).

Base coat

Base coat done, I use a DYI spray filler (Alabastine Spuitplamuur), very very very thin.

Main components in blue

Now loco and tender are masked. I have learned the hard way tha painting the colour first makes masking less tedious. So I painted the loco blue and then apply black. The other way around takes far more masking. It seems odd but there is a simple logic behind it. In the real world which parts where painted blue? Well, those parts which can be cleaned relatively easy, those parts in relatively easy reach of the crew. So guess which parts can be masked with the least effort? Aha!!

When masking is done I first apply another coat of blue. This is to prevent bleeding, creeping of black paint between the blue paint and the masking tape, the paint being drawn in by capillary action (top diagram). Bleeding results in ugly, irregular black smears betraying your masking was not adequate and needing rework.

The trick is that I use bleeding to prevent bleeding. I first spray it in the same colour as the masked layer. If bleeding occurs it will be invisible because it is in the same colour!! (bottom diagram) The new layer does not need to give full coverage. It only needs to be thick enough to seal the openings at the edge of the masking tape.

Some touching up needed, but all in all I am happy